Where I is.

I'm now a bit farther north of Auckland, heading up straight to the top (Cape Reinga) by Sunday. In the meantime I'm just hanging out in Paihia. Did a dolphin tour boat yesterday which didn't end up finding any dolphins but we DID find a pod of orcas which was pretty damn cool too. I will post photos soon, probably after the Cape. Paihia is a pretty cool beach town, things are just gearing up for summer cos it's a big holiday spot... I'll write more later.

I just got my diving photos back from the shop today, and I was having a bit of a problem adding those to Facebook so I had to scrap the old album and put up a new one, so to see some stunning photos (haha, me getting used to film camera again!) from the dive click the link at the bottom of the Dive! posting just below... Some photos will be repeats of what you saw and some will be new. Hoorah!

Dive! Tutukaka

This morning I woke up super early to catch the bus to Tutukaka from Whangarei (say Fungaray) for my first day of diving ever. Since I’d read that this was one of Jacques Cousteau’s top ten diving spots in the world, I figured I should try it out. I mean, seriously, JACQUES freakin’ COUSTEAU!!! We took a boat out about an hour to the Poor Knight’s Islands, and there we stopped for our morning dive at the Magic Wall. I was one-on-one with Karen, my diving pal. She took me through the important skills, and once I had my ever-so-glamourous wetsuit on, we were set to go. Getting dressed kind of feels like you might be going into space. It’s much like space I guess, pressure changes really quickly and there’s not enough oxygen, the creatures are really alien-like, and the farther you get from sea-level the more bizarre things seem to get! First I had to practise breathing through the mouthpiece, which was okay until we went under for a bit, then I started to get a bit panicky and could feel myself hyperventilating a little bit. Luckily Karen is super patient and so great, she really helped me keep work through that. I practiced taking the mouthpiece out and putting it back in, and cleaning the mask underwater (kind of weird, but okay in the end). We followed the rope down to the bottom (about 13 m underwater I think!) and then swam around, giving each other the ‘okay’ signal plenty and seeing all sorts of amazing things!!! It was absolutely incredible. We saw so many cool things, not only fish but…. Let me see, I have to look them up in the guide I bought afterwards. I saw:
• Bluebell tunicates – these little transclucent ultramarine bubbles
• All sorts of algae, green, red, brown, some all feathery and some more stringy or noodly looking lasagna-like algae
• Black pillow sponge
• Common anemones – when I touched them they tuck in all their little white fingers and turn into orange tubey looking things!
• Nudibranches (a type of mollusc) – The spongy clown nudibranch, the Verco’s tambja and others. I also saw a huge trumpet shell.
• Tons of sea urchins, black spiny ones, purple and red ones too.
• Ascidians, white and orange mostly. The white ones look like brains attached to the rock. The red ones are like little red eyeballs with white pupils. Both are called compound ascidan
• Yellow moray eel poking his head out of the rocks. They’re pretty much blind relying on vibrations to ‘see’. Karen tapped the rock beside his hole and he came out a little bit more. What a funny looking little creature. Kind of like an old man missing most of his teeth…
• Snappers – HUGE ones
• Schools and schools of blue maomao
• Loads of Two-Spot Demoiselles – little black ones with, surprisingly, two white spots on them
• Black angelfish – about 30cm long
• A few Sandager’s wrasse, they have blue and green faces and then a few black and yellow stripes.
• I think it was a leather jacket, a large grey fish with big eyes and little tiny fins that somehow allow them to swim forwards and backwards.
• Crimson cleanerfish
• Tons of tiny little triplefins

When we got back to the boat I was feeling pretty tired but so so so so excited. Couldn’t stop shaking because I was freezing cold, thank goodness for Richard’s many cups of hot chocolate. Had some time to warm up and eat our picnic lunch before zooming off to some humungous caves. A few of them we could take the boat right into, and one of them has even had concerts performed inside (50-60 boats can fit in). We toured on over to the Blue Maomao Arch. I hadn’t signed up for 2 dives because I wasn’t sure how I would like it (and it’s a bit pricey!) but I wish that I had. Good thing the snorkeling was still amazing, I saw tons more fish and anemones and had a bit more time to explore the walls of the archway which were covered in amazing critters. Then I grabbed the kayak and spent a nice bit of time out on the water in my little raft doing that! It was just such an amazing day, totally worth the money and so exhilarating. I’d do it again in a heartbeat!

I was SO hungry when I got back to the backpackers, so I walked up to the grocery store and bought myself a steak and made myself a tidy little dinner with roasted potato and a delightful salad. Delish!

I really feel like my time in NZ is just beginning. Auckland was lots of fun but I didn’t do a whole lot. Mostly my impression was “Oh, this is another city”. Everyone was going to work, speaking English, and the shops are mostly the same with small slightly amusing differences. I’m sure there’s lots to see and do there, so when I go back I’m going to do some of the sights, and I’m sure I’ll look like a huge geeky tourist holding my camera at the ready, but I’m going to be okay with that! Heehee! Goodnight.

Photos on Facebook (anyone can click and look at them)

Whangarei Falls and Some Really Huge Trees

Leaving Auckland and heading off to Whangarei Falls on the Stray Travel bus. There were about 7 of us sleepy/hungover folk on the bus, and I slept for some of the way even though our driver (“Princess”) kept waking me up with little tidbits of information, most of which I’ve since forgotten. We stopped somewhere in between Auckland and Whangarei to see an amazingly huge tree (see photos). It was beautiful and reminded me of some of the huge redwoods in BC. When we got to the immaculately clean Whangarei Falls Backpackers I took a much needed nap before taking an hour long mini-hike to the splendid and very photogenic waterfalls. Dinner, and then off to bed!

Feejee photos!

I finally got the photos up, sorry it took awhile!

Part One
Part Two
Part Three

Sailing Adventures and Goodbye Fiji....

Last day in Fiji! Booooo! A huge VINAKA VIKALEVU to Fiji, it’s been amazing. I really don’t want to leave, but onwards to more exciting adventures!

Yesterday was another packed day (it really IS like summer camp!) with a trip on the Seaspray boat. When we woke up at South Sea Island, it was raining. I could have complained only it was the first day of rain since I got to Fiji so let’s just put things in perspective a bit, shall we?! The group from the hostel consisted of: Natalya & Flavia from Brazil, Bernie from UK, Natalia and I from Canada. Determined to make the most of the day we set out in the rain on the first vessel (named…?) to the transfer vessel, and finally to the sailboat. By the time we got to the Seaspray it wasn’t raining anymore, just a bit grey. Holding up the brochure beside the actual boat I think we had been duped. The printing of the name was different, and our boat just didn’t look nearly as impressive. Oh well, it was ‘free’ and since there was going to be ‘free’ liquor on board we figured there were more than a few ways to have some fun on the boat no matter how small it really was. The Seaspray took us to a village for another Kava ceremony to bless our visit, then a bit of time for shopping in the touristy market. I bought a cute coconut shell necklace and could have bought more except for that my backpack weighs enough as it is. Back on the boat, beer and champagne (wait, sparkling wine) flowing, snorkeling and more beer, back on the transfer vessel and back to Nadi (say Nandi) to head back to the backpackers hostel. Too bad when we got to the marina Natalia’s bag wasn’t there and we spent two hours at the bus base trying to track it down. Back to the hostel for food and more crisis intervention (poor girl) and in the end we just went to bed, me slightly drunk and her understandably worried and upset. This morning we tried to do some more problem solving so we headed off to the airport to try and rearrange her flight. She was meant to fly out at 9 this morning, my flight doesn’t leave until 7:45 pm so when they couldn’t switch her flight (big rugby tourney in Australia) I was left here, so I’m killing a fascinating 12 hours in the airport. Wheeee! Good thing the café is letting me steal their Internet service so I have some time to catch up on a few things and post these photos. It’s not the nicest day out anyway so I don’t mind. Anyway, if anyone’s seen a black shiny North Face waterproof duffel bag, let Natalia know. I just think it will show up, I really do. Call me naïve but it’s been a good month of things being returned to their owners (see previous post!) so I can’t help but have faith in people these days.

Here’s a few words I’ve learned since being here:
Bula (Boo-lah) = Hello/Welcome (they say it ALL the time)
Vinaka (Vee-nah-ka)= Thanks
Saga na leqa (Songa na langa) = No problem
Domini Iko (Doh-mee-nee Ee-ko) = I love you
Oro (Oh-ro) = Beautiful/Hot (as in, “Bula oro!”)
Viti (Vee-tee) = Fiji = Land
Viti Levu = Main/Big Land
Lailai (Lie-lie) = Little


I think I’m sort of getting used to living out of a backpack but I’m not entirely a pro yet. I have almost lost a few things along the way but so far I think the only thing I’ve REALLY lost is my cellphone charger at Ryan’s house, so it’s not even really lost. Maybe you could send that to me Ryan…? Please? Domini iko!

Snorkelling with SHARKS!!!

Highlight of the day: snorkeling with reef sharks. I did it! And I didn’t even pee a little! A boatload of us zoomed out over the water-equivalent of a really bumpy gravel road (minus the seatbelts) waaaayyy far away from Waya Lailai. We put on our snorkel gear, jumped out over the side of the boat and within minutes we saw reef sharks and loads of other swimmy creatures. The sharks were so calm, they mostly swam under us and couldn’t be bothered with us lowly humans. Our guide guy kept swimming down to the bottom, waiting for them to come near and then touching their tails, but they honestly didn’t care and they’d just swim away.

Wait, I should make this sound way more exciting than it really was. It was like JAWS, honest! And I almost got eaten alive but I am such an amazing swimmer I’m practically a mermaid and I got away and jumped into the speedboat to safety. Yeah, that’s how I roll. Uh.

Wanna Taki, Waya Lailai - FIJI

We stayed last night on the Wanna Taki ‘cruise’ boat, consisting of a big room of bunk beds and a small TV, and an upper deck with a bar and some wooden tables for eating at. There were about 14 of us on the ship. The best thing was the air-conditioned dorm. The worst thing was being on this weird big boat, feeling slightly stuck. Like cabin fever, except rocking back and forth. The food was good, and the people were very friendly, but man was it ever hot. So yesterday we went snorkeling and saw some amazing fish (more of the same from the day before and a few new ones) in the afternoon. More swimming off the side of the boat and a bit of jumping off the upper deck (talk about a rush of water up your nose!). This morning I convinced the Danes to try kayaking, so we did that to the beach and back with a break in between for sunbathing in the water. Lunch and then back on the transfer boat to the next place. The best thing about that transfer boat is the popsicles and ice creams you can buy. There’s one that’s like a Creamsicle only way better pineapple flavoured ice around. The Chiruppos are lemon flavoured and next time I swear I have to try the “Golden Gaytime” ice cream bar just because. How could I not?!

This afternoon we left the Wanna Taki for the Waya Lailai (Little Waya) Ecohaven Resort. When we arrived at the island, we were greeted by a group of Fijians singing for us, and immediately we felt welcomed. Big smiles and hugs from a man named James. We could see little huts up the side of the hill and groups of people all around doing various things, some working, some playing, talking… Mostly just walked around and sorted out our ‘activities’ for the better part of the dwindling afternoon, since tomorrow is Sunday and that means no activities. So we’re going to go to church in the village and see what that’s all about, and after that, we rest. On Monday we have a jam-packed day so as to fit everything in before we head to South Sea Island!

I had overheard something about wearing a sarong to dinner so I asked about that. It turned out they were planning a big traditional Fijian meal and ceremony for the night, so that means sarongs and covered up shoulders for the girls. And don’t forget the flower behind the ear (left means single, right means “fully booked”). For awhile it seemed like dinner was running late, so we sort of hung about waiting to see what was happening (this was very much unlike the last three nights of drumming and then ‘dig in!’) and then James tells us in the dining area that we are to say a few words (I wish I could remember them, I think they started with a ‘b’ and then we had to repeat it twice) and wait to be invited to the grassy area by the villagers. We walked quietly over and sat down, facing a line of men wearing grass skirts and grassy decorative leis (for lack of better words…). One of them quietly clapped and said words and stirred the Kava in the bowl and then served it up one by one to a few chosen people sitting directly opposite them and then to a few elders. It was very very quiet overall. Then one of them said we were allowed to relax, the ceremony was over and we could take pictures, then we were offered the Kava:
-The guy holding the Kava approaches you
-You clap
-Say “BULA!”
-Return the bowl
To be honest it kind of tastes like muddy water but it doesn't taste awful, just odd. And afterwards your tongue feels a bit numb!

After the Kava ceremony the girls were welcomed up to get the food from the Earth Oven. There was chicken, lamb, pork, tarot root (sp?), sweet potato, pumpkin salad, potato salad, and watermelon. And a spinach thing that actually isn’t spinach but the greens from the tarot cooked in coconut milk. It was all quite good.

After dinner we were happily entertained by about 30 people singing and dancing, doing what I can only guess were traditional dances and songs. Really beautiful and James encouraged us to really whoop and clap at the end of every performance. At the end, we were invited up to do a few dances with the performers, which was heaps of fun!

I really didn’t know what to expect here so it has just been surprise after surprise after surprise. I feel so very lucky to be here – really on the other side of the planet, experiencing nothing further than I could have imagined from my life 6 months ago, honestly!

So here I am in this funny little shoebox of a room (a room to myself, even if it is literally the size of a shoebox!) surrounded by mosquito net (mozzy net?), I can hear the guy next door snoring his head off, people chatting out in the dining area and the Fijians singing and playing guitars. The waves are crashing out there and the stars are twinkling bright, there are some stray dogs roaming around and I saw a cockroach the size of my thumb by the outdoor washrooms, as well as a moth the size of my entire hand resting by one of the tired dogs. Also don’t forget the spider the size of my face in the toilet stall that I convinced myself I wasn’t afraid of until it scuttered away faster than any insect I’ve ever seen, causing me to jump up and out of that stall with an embarrassing little shriek. Most importantly though, while I’m setting the scene I can’t forget the rustling of the palm leaves, that’s very important because I think those are what will ultimately lull me to sleep.

I really do like turtles.

If this doesn't make any sense, that's okay. But if it does, all the better. Clue: Search YouTube for Zombie Kid Likes Turtles and you might understand, just a little bit. A little bit.

Vancouver

I don't even know where to begin, this has been the craziest week! It has pretty much the best way I could think of saying goodbye before I leave...

First things first. Ryan's birthday weekend. I flew in on Friday afternoon to be greeted my Mama Denney (Andrea), Mark and Justin. Pretty much straight from the airport, we headed over to the best Indian restaurant EVER to reserve a spot. Because apparently you have to line up to get in. When we got there, there wasn't anybody there at all so we chilled for a bit at the place next door, having a beer on the patio. I think we were all feeling pretty giddy because this was a surprise dinner for Ryan and he had no idea that Mark and Justin were going to be there, and we all like surprises so it was just ridiculous. Around 5:00 we look up at the place next door and I think that people had jumped out of the bushes all ninja style out of nowhere, one minute there wasn't a line up and the next there were 10 people just casually standing around. Mark took one for the team at that point and went to hold our spot while we finished our beers. ANYWAY. It *was* delicious, Ryan was totally surprised, nobody peed their pants, and it was just the beginning of the weekend kickoff.

So the following night we had a little gig to go see at the casino.... DANA CARVEY! To be honest I wasn't expecting a whole lot, since I really haven't seen too much out of him since his 'Party on Wayne' days. Holy shazbot though, he was hilarious. Pulled out a bunch of old stuff you can see on YouTube but of course it was way funnier. And he just rolls with everything so seamlessly, he was incredible. So that was the beginning of my face hurting and involuntary ab crunching from all the laughing...... After Dana we headed out to a pub and had lots of very good chats even if I can't remember all of it.... When we got home to Mama's I think we spent a good solid 2 hours watching YouTube videos (highlights: Bush-isms, I-Like-Turtles Zombie kid, Demetri Martin, Debbie Downer) sort of drifting in and out of sleep while laughing at the same time. What an awesome way to dream! Oh, and somewhere in there we took pictures and videos of us trying to look like turtles. Oh boy. So the disclaimer basically reads: I don't always look like this, I am *trying* to keep a straight face which you know is difficult for me.

The next day we all looked like the zombie kid I think from all the lack of sleep. I honestly don't totally remember what we did, but I'm sure we laughed a lot and complained about our faces hurting. We did go for all-you-can-eat sushi which involved sitting in a boat and eating a ridiculous amount of food. I think we ate something like this:

• 1 rice paddy
• 1 octopus
• 1 squid
• 2 1/2 salmon
• 1 eel
• 1 tuna
• 1 beluga whale
  
• 1 avocado tree
• 3/4 pig
• 1/4 cow
• 1 tonne nori
  

In the end, the food was delicious but we all ached after that. I was still full in the morning. It was just the best weekend, I can't begin to represent that here in words, but it was just incredible. We had lots of heavy talks about the end of the world and then on the other end just crying from laughing so hard. Put three people in a room who are essentially unemployed and homeless and you get a lot of conversations about what it means to be living your life....

Mama Denney had to go to Calgary, so I stayed a few nights at Papa G's house. Thankfully he got a day off, so we went over to Granville and bought all sorts of delicious food to make for Thanksgiving dinner. And oh, how thankful I am for delicious food. See picture for details. Incredible.

I also went out to meet up with Maria, my first friend ever from the 182 Borden Street days (a loooong time ago). It was so good to chat: "So, what have you been up to the last, oh, 18 years?!" Thank you, Facebook. I need to find that picture now of us dressed up like royalty with your dad serving us an 8 course meal.

And now, I'm at cousin Emilia's, enjoying the most hospitable little house with her and her man Kevin. We went for a long walk by Spanish Bay yesterday, and then went to the Vancouver Film Festival's screening of "Garbage Warrior". And, he was there! Oh, to be self-sustainable.... living the dream.

I leave in 30 hours. This is really happening. Just me and my bohemoth of a backpack. Please send me emails, keep in touch, I'm sure I'll be missing you.... xoxoxoxoxo

Click here for photos of all our shenanigans.

Zombie Kid Likes Turtles.


Andrea Likes Turtles.


Mark Likes Turtles.


Justin Likes Turtles.

And I like turtles, too... but the video of me is not yet uploadable. The file is too big. Imagine me on a couch giggling for two minutes, attempting unsuccessfully to say "I like turtles" with a straight face. Why can't I do anything like that with a straight face?!

Debbie Downer in Disneyland

You must watch this.